Welcome to the North American MGB Register

The North American MGB Register (NAMGBR) is an international MG car club serving the needs of the MGB, MGC, MG Midget, MG 1100/1300 and Post Abingdon MG owners, across North America.
Our club is run and elected by the membership for the membership. We are a registered 501(c)7 Not-For-Profit corporation and have been established since 1990.
We hold an annual convention and car show in North America in the summer each year and this is hosted by one of our Affiliate Chapters highlighting the chapter’s local area. Our Annual General Meeting (AGM) is held in October of each year at the location of the following year’s convention & car show. All members are invited to attend the AGM.
There are also NAMGBR sanctioned and supported regional events which may enable you to get to a NAMGBR show in the event that the annual convention is too far for you to travel to.
mgdriver-logoWe publish our world famous The MG Driver magazine six times a year in full color.
Our magazine features updates from the officers, member submitted articles on technical matters, projects or trips, reports on local and regional car shows and events, technical and troubleshooting advice by our Technical Coordinator, the renowned John Twist and an update on upcoming events.
Within the overall club, there are specific sub-registers that support specific models of MGs that collectively make up NAMGBR. We also have some specialty registers for certain unique categories of MGs.
MGB, MG Midget, MG 1100/1300, MGC, and Post Abingdon MGs, such as the MGF, MG TF and RV8 all have a register, with a register head focussed on that group of MGs. There are also specialty registers for: the MGB Limited Editions, the early “Pull Handle” MGBs, 1967 MGB GT Specials, MGB V8’s and the 1974 1/2 MGBs. See the Registers page for all the details and register head contact information.
As an individual member there are many benefits of membership which starts at just $30 per year. You can find all the details and specifics on the Join Us page.
We also have Affiliate Chapters/Clubs and the requirements to be an affiliate chapter are fairly simple and in return the affiliated club gets great benefits such as event and director and officer liability insurance. Start with the Join Us page and also see the Resources page as well for all the details.
Resources – lots of them! As in individual member you’ll benefit from things like the MG Driver magazine, Mutual Aid Directory (MAD), Service Recommendations, NAMGBR Facebook Group and if you’re not a member in a local club, we can help you find one.
As an Affiliate Chapter you can be covered by the umbrella event liability and director and officer insurance policy. Additionally we’ll direct new members to your club if they are not currently members.
Just visit the Resources page for more details.

The NAMGBR Facebook Group Feed

I have a 72B; bought a couple months ago. I have zero dash lights. Ideas on where to start troubleshooting? ... See MoreSee Less

1 week ago

Comment on Facebook

Minimal lighting is normal. Check the rheostat knob to be sure that they are not fully dimmed.

First thing I would do is label your wires at the fuse block, remove it from the car and sandblast it or take a good wire brush to the block, then put it back on and reattach the wires.

Check the rheostat first, some of the B's had an inline fuse for the panel lights.

Even if they work, which mine do, they barely illuminate the gauge anyway😀

I have a completely black dash at night. Has anyone seen LED's for the dash?

Do you really want to know what those gauges are reading?

Start with the wiring diagram for your car. www.advanceautowire.com/mgb.pdf Assuming someone has not tried to rewire your car, the black wires are ground wires. Clean the ground points on the car. I just bypassed the rheostat on my car, most of them don't work after a few years. Disconnect you battery if you are going to take things apart. Don't let the smoke out of the wires. Remember brown wires in the MGB are always hot.

I know this sounds weird but I think all the he electrics feed through the cigar lighter.

Disconnect the reostat, connect all wires red/white, from the reostat check instruments have a good ground.

I tried getting my meathooks up behind the dash. I could barely reach and touch the back of the dimmer with my fingertips. I know I only need to move one of the connections over to the other side of the switch, but darn could not reach it enough to disconnect. Side issue, busted a couple of the seat webbing by putting my weight on my elbows on the corner of my seat. Now there is that to deal with.

Fuse block and a wire brush

I would check the bulbs first. No point in doing all the wiring, fuses and reostats if the bulbs are all dead or even missing

New fuse block $10.00 Moss

Bypass the rheostat. Full bright is still fairly dim.

Update - Problem solved. Turns out my headlight switch decided to self destruct, pushing me to place an order for both headlight and dimmer switches and a couple of seat webbing kits as well. I had busted through a couple of straps by placing too much weight on my elbow on the corner of the driver seat attempting to reach up under the dash to try to bypass the dimmer plugs. Anyway... I now have the notoriously dim dash lights! Took a long drive at dusk to check out my handiwork. Now to make plans to buy LED's. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Our pleasure to advise help and suggestions.

Give us a week or so for our Brains to recover, lol.

David Johnson when I replace diagrahms I replace the seat cussons, Diaphrams and the straps that go on 1977 t0 1980. The straps I have to drill a few more holes but in the end I have a firmer ride.

+ View previous comments

PSA: replace your oil pressure hose!

So this afternoon I decided to finally tune the set of HIF4s I had rebuilt a while ago. Fill the dashpots. Set the tappets, pull the dizzy and set the points gap. Static time it 10 btdc, you know the drill. Car starts immediately and is idling way high, adjust the idle down and balance the airflow and... hey what's leaking? Oil, about 2 quarts of it spewing out of the flex line to the gauge. I shut it down immediately and hopefully there's no permanent damage. I'm guessing I lost 2 to 3 quarts, as the level was just under the low mark.

Line looked fine from the outside; if yours is more than a few years old, replace it. Like right now. Better yet, do what I'm doing: fit a 4AN flex line from Earl's with some BSP to AN adapters. Ordering parts tonight from Jegs/Pegasus.
... See MoreSee Less

3 hours ago

PSA: replace your oil pressure hose!

So this afternoon I decided to finally tune the set of HIF4s I had rebuilt a while ago.  Fill the dashpots.  Set the tappets, pull the dizzy and set the points gap.  Static time it 10 btdc, you know the drill.  Car starts immediately and is idling way high, adjust the idle down and balance the airflow and... hey whats leaking?  Oil, about 2 quarts of it spewing out of the flex line to the gauge.  I shut it down immediately and hopefully theres no permanent damage.  Im guessing I lost 2 to 3 quarts, as the level was just under the low mark.

Line looked fine from the outside; if yours is more than a few years old, replace it.  Like right now.  Better yet, do what Im doing: fit a 4AN flex line from Earls with some BSP to AN adapters.  Ordering parts tonight from Jegs/Pegasus.

Comment on Facebook

On my MGA this line gave our and stranded me in southern Indiana. A couple of guys stopped to help and came up with a great temp fix. Ice maker hose. Cut the ends off the burst hose, placed them on the ice maker hose, put oil in and off I went.

Mark Elmore shared his post to the group: NAMGBR - North American MGB Register.
Mark Elmore

The Salmon Feed yesterday hosted by Mark and Julie Gantar. Thank youYesterday at the Salmon Feed hosted by Mark and Julie Gantar. Well attended. ... See MoreSee Less

6 hours ago

The Salmon Feed yesterday hosted by Mark and Julie Gantar.  Thank you

Grocery getter ... See MoreSee Less

2 days ago

Grocery getter

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